Stubbs & Wootton Velvet Slippers.

I love velvet... its got a louche ambience about it which gives an outfit that extra bit of gentlemanly panache. However, in such humidity it’s so impractical to wear such a thick material without sweating to death. 

Fortunately, Stubbs & Wootton have created a collection of beautifully crafted velvet slippers that’d give every outfit an aristocratic air. Pair with tailored slim-fit trousers (roll the bottom up one-fold) or shorts for maximum effect. Socks are optional (though I prefer without). 

Visit www.mrporter.com for the full range

All shoes priced at £350

The smell of Elnette saturated the air around Covent Garden last weekend, along with bloggers hungry for their next fix of street style and celebrity snaps.

As David Gandy, that Adonis of the Amalfi Coast, celebrities and a troupe of well-dressed, immaculately groomed industry professionals marched through the iron gates of the Hospital Club, history was made.

This was SS13 London Collections: Men.

 some photos and information from London Collections:MenSS13 has been taken from fashion125 and http://www.londoncollections.co.uk

Pringle of Scotland - London Collections Men SS13

“Expect something more streamlined, less archive-oriented”

Despite a rich heritage in British and fashion history, design director Alistair Carr (like many of his predecessors) re-appropriated, adapted and developed Pringle of Scotland’s signature style to bring argyle prints and cashmere twinsets into the 21^st century.

As a predominantly tattooed cast of male models sauntered down a teal runway to the soulful sounds of Terence Trent D’Arby, it was clear that Carr had cleverly combined the ease and comfort of modern sportswear with the brand’s traditional British heritage and association with leisurely country pursuits - in hope of appealing to a younger, trendier (blatant East London) male community who have seemingly come to define what fashion is.

Initially, colour palettes remained mostly monotonous with faded whites infused with nautical indigo stripes on jackets and jumpers. Navies soon dominated on clean-cut blazers or in the form of irregular panels on steal grey tailored trousers.

However, despite a boring start, a burst of colour soon exploded onto the runway with burnt oranges, citrus yellows, clay reds and sky blues consuming looks from head to toe. Tailoring became unrestricting and more casual as utilitarian outerwear featured numerous pockets and buttons that transformed garments into functioning backpacks; here the union of sportswear with traditional country aesthetics was fully expressed.

Yet, despite a dramatic move into the present, there was a subtle nod to the past as the brand’s identifiable argyle print made a cheeky appearance on socks and jumpers, whilst the traditional oxford brogue was given a sporty makeover with white canvas and black platforms. Luxury materials, typical of Pringle, also resounded through the entire collection in the form of cashmere knits and a leather/denim combo on various lapel-less blazers and bombers.

The mix of sports/heritage worked in many cases, and adapted to the needs of the modern gentleman. However, some adaptations (such as the shoes) were too radical…innovation in moderation, please.

                   

Omar Kashoura - London Collections SS13 Men

“I guess you could say it’s directional with intricate details and ways of finishing. It’s most definitely masculine with pieces that are fun and beautifully crafted.”

In contrast to the pathological and sometimes prepubescent models that graced the catwalks of some shows, it was nice to see the robust figures of testosterone fuelled men (all with very impressive facial hair) sweep the runway at the Omar Kashoura show. A cast that perfectly captured the masculine ethos of the collection.

An established designer who has become synonymous with meticulous tailoring, fine detailing and technology rich fabrics is always worth anticipating, and Kashoura’s SS13 collection undoubtedly lived up to all the hype.

This time, Kashoura chose the Black Rock Desert as a point of focus, opting for a colour scheme that reflected the dusty oranges and sand beiges of the North Nevada landscape, whilst touches of deep hued blues and pebble grays recalled the various rock and mineral formations that scatter the famous paleological phenomena.

Typical Kashoura elements were seen in clean-cut tailoring and soft detailed knitwear. Orange remained the dominant hue, utilized on shirts, blazers and outerwear whilst navy graphic prints updated the designer’s usual crisp white shirts. The most impressive piece- a classic suit in sandy beige that epitomized the designer’s flair for quality finish and attention to detail. 

 

Mr. Hare - London Collections Men SS13

Inspired by the progressive and revolutionary ideology of the postmodernist movement, Mr. Hare breaks the boundaries and conventions of traditional shoe-craft with a refreshing and novel take on classic shoes.

Created from calf leather (annoyingly crease-easy), the collection deviates from typical shoe-palettes and features bold, solid choices of greens and blued mixed with neutral creams and contrast laces.

A conscious avoidance of excessive decoration and over-perforation creates a focus on the form, design and simplicity of each piece – all perfectly stitched, folded and finished to create a mouthwatering shoe collection.

Mr. Hare is definitely a name that should appear in the next GQ shoe issue. 

Lou Dalton - London Collections Men SS13

"The SS13 designs are based around obsession and collecting”

Citing independent American films were her point of reference, Lou Dalton’s SS13 collection was inspired by the obsessive/compulsive behavior that humans often succumb to in the desire for perfection, and the oscillation between contentment and depression that comes with it. A juxtaposition that was perfectly manifested in a dramatic music change, where beats became faster and models marched down the catwalk to a soundtrack provided by Jim Stanton and Horse Meat Disco.

With the change, streamlined clean-cuts and symmetry took a change for the surreal and asymmetrical, whilst mixed palettes created a playfulness that has so far come to define Dalton’s modern tailored style.

Like many other collections, tailoring was amalgamated with a sports-lux aesthetic; breathe-easy suits with mesh covered torsos and backs were paired with inky black trainers, whilst shirts and jackets were paired with boxy shoulders that provided outerwear with an American varsity aesthetic. Neon detailing on footwear and t-shirts again added a playful element to the collection, whilst deep navies, stone grays and sand beiges were paneled on torsos in a mixture of mohair and metallic fabrics.

The perfect opening for the three-day event, and one that set the bar high for other designers. 

                           

                        

Jonathan Saunders - London Collections Men SS13

Jonathan Saunders chose to exhibit his SS13 David Bowie inspired collection through live installation and rails in hope of giving his fan-base real brand experience.

A 70’s vibe expressed itself in a colour spectrum that ranged from rich teals on velvet to primary reds and yellows on tailored trousers and jumpers. A shade of brown, typical of the period, featured on shorts and shirts and were complimented with a deep emerald green (a powerful colour combination that has already been seen in H&M’s AW12 collection.)

Jersey T-shirts and suits were both decorated with thin pinstripes and circular geometric graphic prints, finished with iconic Bowie sunglasses to complete the look. Trench coats also featured (a good all-season garm) equipping the Saunder’s man with attire perfectly suited for London’s unpredictable weather.

I’m already anticipating this release. 

Joseph Abboud - London Collections Men SS13

 “The whole thing started with two movies…”

Under the creative guidance of Bernardo Rojo, Joseph Abboud’s SS13 collection (like many others over the weekend) epitomized the hybridization of sport and formalwear. A mix that was born from the designer’s inspiration from two American movies from the same decade; The Sting and North Face. Whilst the former follows the cons of two dandyish grifters, the latter focuses on climbing the Eiger in Switzerland.

Classic tailoring was updated with modern materials to offer a relaxed, elegant and sporty aesthetic. Polo necks were worn beneath double-breasted blazers, whilst open-neck shirts were paired with ribbed v-neck jumpers; imbuing the collection with a preppy attitude. Highlights included glossy scarlet and black patent jackets with popped collars that provided a vivid injection of contemporary cool

                                                         

some photos of all London Collections:MenSS13 courtesy of fashion125

Modus Press Day- A/W12

The nice lady on BBC news (Sangita…bless her) promised us hot weather all week in London, prompting us to march into stores across the capital and purchase those summer garms we’ve been lusting over for the past few weeks. Summer is here (or is it?) - time to burn store away that chunky coat and start creating a new, seasonally appropriate wardrobe.  For me, this dose of heat is perfect justification for spending money I don’t really have on cartoon print shirts, brightly coloured blazers and suede slippers.

However, after viewing the new Calvin Klein Collection, Canali, Bally, Brooks and G-Star menswear A/W12 collections at the Modus press day (which I was working at), I’ve got to admit… that for once… I’m already anticipating our next winter a little.  Recurring trends seemed to be velvet jackets in earthy tones and dusky blues (loved velvet last season so happy to see it again), gator prints, chalk coloured shearling, and chunky jumpers made from a mixture of softer materials with metallic embroidery or appliqué; all of which left me salivating slightly. Brights and prints also look to carry over seasons on blazers and accessories- perfect for making a statement or adding a little personality to an outfit.


Here are a couple of snaps that I took of things that caught my eye… LOVE the orange and mustard Brooks bags and the Calvin Klein Gator hoodie… the latter is a tad unaffordable, but a boy can dream...



Orange and mustard bags at Brooks                 Bell & Ross watches                                     Marchon sunglasses 
 

See you later (in A/W12) Alligator

So gator print is going to be making a snappy comeback next season (whether it’s faux or hides) on both clothes and accessories, and were fatured in both Calvin Klein Collections (pictures above) and Bally’s A/W12 range. Below are some more pictures of Bally gator accessories that weren’t at the press day. I’m currently infatuated with the briefcase – amazing no?

Winter Blues!

We've just crawled out from what felt like a Siberian winter, a time when the (fashion conscious) male population of London fell victim to the evil hands of practicality and wept as we unenthusiastically tied the laces on THOSE sporty white trainers and cobbed-webbed wellington boots; disobeying the gospel according to fashion in order to avoid frostbite and hypothermia. However, as the last bits of ice begin to melt and the temperature rises a couple of bars, try adding a splash of blue to your footwear collection instead of wearing your conventional tanned brogues or black boots. There’s plenty of deep hued numbers that’ll give you that clean, fresh look in preparation for warmer times. Pair with a light coloured chino or clean-cut trouser with brightly coloured socks (orange and red look particularly good) for that dandyish pop. And remember... you don't want the colour to fade or the suede to ruin so wear protection...  cheeky.

shoes from top to bottom. Acne Desert High Suede Boots, £330. Mark McNairy contrast sole suede loafers, £245. Mark McNairy Suede Derby Buck Shoes, £195. All available at www.mrporter.co.uk. Office suede protection spray, £4.50. Pantone chunky orange socks, £10, available at www.asos.co.uk. Biscotti skinny trousers, £34, available at www.Topman.co.uk 

Boxpark, Shoreditch.

Ok... admittedly this is a little very overdue but because I'm crazy over the concept of this badboy pop-up mall and retail revolution I thought it deserved a post.  

Placed smack bang in the middle of Shoreditch (East London) Boxpark couldn't be located in an area more suited to its innovative and casually cool ethos. Constructed out of stripped and refitted shipping containers to create 'box-shops', it forms a compact and easily navigable shopping centre which houses over 30 realistic brands that suit Shoreditch's trendy community, along with art galleries and cafes on the second floor with are perfect for a casual sunday hang-out. 

I was there for the press launch of Boxfresh, but I made sure I had time to have a cheeky gander round the  site. It was so refreshing to be at a shopping centre which avoided all the intensity, intrusiveness and attitude of other retail locations in London where it feels like you'll need 2 aspirin and a generously filled tumbler of whisky to calm you after your standard shopping trip. Instead, each intimate 'box-shop' encourages you to have a chilled-out look around in your own time – they feel more like personal storage units so you can really enjoy brand experience, which is lost in most other places.

Though it’s only a portable pop-up mall, with most stores having a 3 or 5-year lease, it's definitely a novel and innovative way to shop. Inherently moveable, let's hope they pop up in more places (epic fail of a joke? Sorry). 

If you get a chance, then check it out...

   

                            

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