The smell of Elnette saturated the air around Covent Garden last weekend, along with bloggers hungry for their next fix of street style and celebrity snaps.

As David Gandy, that Adonis of the Amalfi Coast, celebrities and a troupe of well-dressed, immaculately groomed industry professionals marched through the iron gates of the Hospital Club, history was made.

This was SS13 London Collections: Men.

 some photos and information from London Collections:MenSS13 has been taken from fashion125 and http://www.londoncollections.co.uk

Pringle of Scotland - London Collections Men SS13

“Expect something more streamlined, less archive-oriented”

Despite a rich heritage in British and fashion history, design director Alistair Carr (like many of his predecessors) re-appropriated, adapted and developed Pringle of Scotland’s signature style to bring argyle prints and cashmere twinsets into the 21^st century.

As a predominantly tattooed cast of male models sauntered down a teal runway to the soulful sounds of Terence Trent D’Arby, it was clear that Carr had cleverly combined the ease and comfort of modern sportswear with the brand’s traditional British heritage and association with leisurely country pursuits - in hope of appealing to a younger, trendier (blatant East London) male community who have seemingly come to define what fashion is.

Initially, colour palettes remained mostly monotonous with faded whites infused with nautical indigo stripes on jackets and jumpers. Navies soon dominated on clean-cut blazers or in the form of irregular panels on steal grey tailored trousers.

However, despite a boring start, a burst of colour soon exploded onto the runway with burnt oranges, citrus yellows, clay reds and sky blues consuming looks from head to toe. Tailoring became unrestricting and more casual as utilitarian outerwear featured numerous pockets and buttons that transformed garments into functioning backpacks; here the union of sportswear with traditional country aesthetics was fully expressed.

Yet, despite a dramatic move into the present, there was a subtle nod to the past as the brand’s identifiable argyle print made a cheeky appearance on socks and jumpers, whilst the traditional oxford brogue was given a sporty makeover with white canvas and black platforms. Luxury materials, typical of Pringle, also resounded through the entire collection in the form of cashmere knits and a leather/denim combo on various lapel-less blazers and bombers.

The mix of sports/heritage worked in many cases, and adapted to the needs of the modern gentleman. However, some adaptations (such as the shoes) were too radical…innovation in moderation, please.

                   

Omar Kashoura - London Collections SS13 Men

“I guess you could say it’s directional with intricate details and ways of finishing. It’s most definitely masculine with pieces that are fun and beautifully crafted.”

In contrast to the pathological and sometimes prepubescent models that graced the catwalks of some shows, it was nice to see the robust figures of testosterone fuelled men (all with very impressive facial hair) sweep the runway at the Omar Kashoura show. A cast that perfectly captured the masculine ethos of the collection.

An established designer who has become synonymous with meticulous tailoring, fine detailing and technology rich fabrics is always worth anticipating, and Kashoura’s SS13 collection undoubtedly lived up to all the hype.

This time, Kashoura chose the Black Rock Desert as a point of focus, opting for a colour scheme that reflected the dusty oranges and sand beiges of the North Nevada landscape, whilst touches of deep hued blues and pebble grays recalled the various rock and mineral formations that scatter the famous paleological phenomena.

Typical Kashoura elements were seen in clean-cut tailoring and soft detailed knitwear. Orange remained the dominant hue, utilized on shirts, blazers and outerwear whilst navy graphic prints updated the designer’s usual crisp white shirts. The most impressive piece- a classic suit in sandy beige that epitomized the designer’s flair for quality finish and attention to detail. 

 

Mr. Hare - London Collections Men SS13

Inspired by the progressive and revolutionary ideology of the postmodernist movement, Mr. Hare breaks the boundaries and conventions of traditional shoe-craft with a refreshing and novel take on classic shoes.

Created from calf leather (annoyingly crease-easy), the collection deviates from typical shoe-palettes and features bold, solid choices of greens and blued mixed with neutral creams and contrast laces.

A conscious avoidance of excessive decoration and over-perforation creates a focus on the form, design and simplicity of each piece – all perfectly stitched, folded and finished to create a mouthwatering shoe collection.

Mr. Hare is definitely a name that should appear in the next GQ shoe issue. 

Lou Dalton - London Collections Men SS13

"The SS13 designs are based around obsession and collecting”

Citing independent American films were her point of reference, Lou Dalton’s SS13 collection was inspired by the obsessive/compulsive behavior that humans often succumb to in the desire for perfection, and the oscillation between contentment and depression that comes with it. A juxtaposition that was perfectly manifested in a dramatic music change, where beats became faster and models marched down the catwalk to a soundtrack provided by Jim Stanton and Horse Meat Disco.

With the change, streamlined clean-cuts and symmetry took a change for the surreal and asymmetrical, whilst mixed palettes created a playfulness that has so far come to define Dalton’s modern tailored style.

Like many other collections, tailoring was amalgamated with a sports-lux aesthetic; breathe-easy suits with mesh covered torsos and backs were paired with inky black trainers, whilst shirts and jackets were paired with boxy shoulders that provided outerwear with an American varsity aesthetic. Neon detailing on footwear and t-shirts again added a playful element to the collection, whilst deep navies, stone grays and sand beiges were paneled on torsos in a mixture of mohair and metallic fabrics.

The perfect opening for the three-day event, and one that set the bar high for other designers. 

                           

                        

Jonathan Saunders - London Collections Men SS13

Jonathan Saunders chose to exhibit his SS13 David Bowie inspired collection through live installation and rails in hope of giving his fan-base real brand experience.

A 70’s vibe expressed itself in a colour spectrum that ranged from rich teals on velvet to primary reds and yellows on tailored trousers and jumpers. A shade of brown, typical of the period, featured on shorts and shirts and were complimented with a deep emerald green (a powerful colour combination that has already been seen in H&M’s AW12 collection.)

Jersey T-shirts and suits were both decorated with thin pinstripes and circular geometric graphic prints, finished with iconic Bowie sunglasses to complete the look. Trench coats also featured (a good all-season garm) equipping the Saunder’s man with attire perfectly suited for London’s unpredictable weather.

I’m already anticipating this release. 

Joseph Abboud - London Collections Men SS13

 “The whole thing started with two movies…”

Under the creative guidance of Bernardo Rojo, Joseph Abboud’s SS13 collection (like many others over the weekend) epitomized the hybridization of sport and formalwear. A mix that was born from the designer’s inspiration from two American movies from the same decade; The Sting and North Face. Whilst the former follows the cons of two dandyish grifters, the latter focuses on climbing the Eiger in Switzerland.

Classic tailoring was updated with modern materials to offer a relaxed, elegant and sporty aesthetic. Polo necks were worn beneath double-breasted blazers, whilst open-neck shirts were paired with ribbed v-neck jumpers; imbuing the collection with a preppy attitude. Highlights included glossy scarlet and black patent jackets with popped collars that provided a vivid injection of contemporary cool

                                                         

some photos of all London Collections:MenSS13 courtesy of fashion125